'Gunks - New Paltz, NY


Gunks - Link to all 'Gunks posts.

General Info: Located in New Paltz, NY on the Mohonk Preserve, the Shawangunks (or 'Gunks) offers a myriad of easy to advanced trad routes that are easily accessible via a well-groomed carriage road and system of trails. There are many multi-pitch routes routes as well as some single-pitch options. Northeast climbers would note a significant number of their classic must-dos are in the 'Gunks.

There is a daily fee: $15 per day for climbers or $85 for a 12-month pass for climbers (as of May 2008).

Camping: As of May of 2008, there are several pay campgrounds and two free sites. The two free sites have been threatened with closure for a few years now due to the possible opening of an AMC reservation-based campground.

The Multi-Use Area (MUA) is located on Route 299 not far from the intersection with Route 44/55. It is on both sides of the road, allows campfires and has more than 20 spots available. Camping here is free.

There is also the affectionately-called Camp Slime. At the intersection of 299 and 44/55, take a right and head up-hill. After the hairpin turn, you'll pass a tarred parking lot on the left. Very soon after that is an unmarked dirt lot on the left. Turn in here to unload your gear. If you pass the bridge, then you've gone too far. Do not park in this lot, as it is for handicap patrons only. After unloading, obtain a registration card and fill out your car number and camp site number. Tear it and place half on your car's dashboard and half on the clip on the tree near the site number sign. Then, turn left out of the parking lot (go under the bridge) and head down-hill about 100 yards or so and take the next right into the Trapps parking lot. Park here overnight. The path back to the campground is at the far end of the parking lot. Follow this path to the top of the bridge, turn right once on the bridge and left at the end (this will put you back in the handicap parking lot). Fires are not allowed here, and camping is also free. There are about 10 sites available. The climbing is right across the bridge from Camp Slime.

Directions: I-87 to New Paltz (exit 18). Take a left into town. Pass through town, go over the steel bridge, pass several farms / fields and into some forested areas. It is several miles and about 15-30 minutes to the 44/55 intersection (depending on traffic in-town). At the intersection of 44/55 (note: the intersection is when you can't go straight anymore), take a right. Go uphill, around the hairpin turn, under the bridge and take the first right into the Trapps parking lot. There are other parking lots on the road before the Trapps Bridge. You can park here, too, but be aware of the parking restrictions that are posted at each site.

Guideboooks: The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks by Dick Williams or The Gunks Guide by Todd Swain


Routes: - Links to all Gunks posts discussing the routes noted below (sorted by grade / alphabetical).

Trapps - see below for Near Trapps

- Easy Keyhole (5.2)
- Easy V (5.2)

- Beginner's Delight (5.3)
- Minty (5.3)
- Shockley's Without (5.3)
- Three Pines (5.3)


- Squiggles (5.4)
- Sixish (5.4+)

- Arch (5.5)
- High Corner (5.5)
- Horseman (5.5)
- Middle Earth (5.5)
- Snowpatch (5.5)
- Ursula (5.5)

- Baby (5.6)
- Bunny (5.6)
- Credibility Gap (5.6)
- Easy Baby Link-up (5.6)
- Frog's Head (5.6-)
- High Exposure (5.6)
- Jackie (5.6)
- Madam Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6)
- Moonlight (5.6)
- Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
- Thin Slabs (5.6)
- Wrist (5.6)

- Maria (5.6+)

- Blistered Toe (5.7)
- Bloody Mary (5.7)
- Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (5.7)
- Filipina-Boldville Link-up
- Gorilla My Dreams (5.7)
- Hans Puss (5.7)
- Limelight (5.7)
- Oscar and Charlie Link Up (5.7)
- Peregrine (5.7)
- Shit Creek (5.7)
- Strickly From Nowhere (5.7)
- Drunkard's Delight (5.8-)

- Arrow (5.8)
- Double Crack (5.8)
- Quiver (5.8)
- Snooky's Return (5.8)
- Son of Easy Overhang (5.8)

- Ants Line (5.9)
- Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
- Maria Direct (5.9)

- Maria Redirect (5.11a)

Near Trapps

- Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.3)

- Gelsa (5.4)

- Layback (5.5)
- Short and Sassy (5.5)

- Disneyland (5.6)
- Grease Gun Groove (5.6)

- Yellow Ridge (5.7-)
- Te Dum (5.7)
- Up Yours (5.7)

- Baskerville Terrace (5.7+)

- Alphonse (5.8)
- Lean and Mean (5.8)
- Main Line (5.8)
- Outsiders (5.8)
- Yellow Belly (5.8)

- Birdland (5.8+)

- Grand Central (5.9)
- Hold the Mayo (5.9)

- Broken Sling (5.9+)

- Criss Cross Direct (5.10a)

- Birdcage (5.10b)

- Spinal Exam (5.10c)

- Lichen 40 Winks (5.7+)
- Something Interesting (5.7+)
- Thins Slabs (5.7+)

- City Lights (5.8-)