Tuesday

Rumney (Rattlesnake Mtn) - Rumney, NH



Rumney - Link to all Rumney Posts

General Info: Located in Rumney, NH, near Plymouth, off I-93 by 15-20 minutes or so. Vast majority of routes are sport routes of all grades. May have the largest concentration of 5.14 climbs in the US, but also home to a lot of moderates, too. Rattlesnake Mtn has over a dozen crags spread across the mountain, with two parking areas (main lot and the smaller lot below the Main Cliff). Expect a fair amount of hiking along the road and up well-worn, steep, trails. There are several areas that are close to the road, however (Parking Lot Wall, Meadows, Main Wall, Orange Crush, 5.8 Crag). An excellent swimming hole is in between the two parking lots, but closer to the main lot.

Camping: Camping can be found across the street from the main lot at the back end of the farm down by the river. This is private property, so please be respectful. You must register and pay with the owners (in the house next to the barn). There are no facilities bar an outhouse, but they'll let you stay on the property until you leave (i.e. - no checkout time).

Directions: I-93 to the Rumney exit. Follow Route 25 for several miles, through a round-about, past the Polar Caves. Take a right onto Main St (should be a yellow, blinking light - probably the second one after the round-about) at the restuarant Mountain Grille. Go down the road a bit (over a small bridge) and take a left on to Buffalo Road (local church on the corner). Go down the road until you reach the main lot on the right.

Parking: Parking costs $3 per car (as of May of 2008). It is an honor-envelope system. Put your money in the envelope, tear the end off, drop the envelope in the lock-box, and put the torn end on your dashboard. Do NOT park on the road. Rumney Police will ticket your car.

Guideboooks: Rumney by Ward Smith (currently out of print - May 2008) or Rock Climbing New England by Stewart Green (Falcon Guide)

Routes and Cliffs: - Links to all Rumney posts discussing the routes noted below (sorted by grade / alphabetical).

Bonsai
- War and Peace (5.9)
- Masterpiece (5.10a)

Jimmy Cliff
- Drilling for Dollars (5.8)
- Junco (5.8)
- Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
- Hammond Organ (5.10d)

Main Cliff Right
- Gold Digger (5.8+)
- Underdog (5.10a)

Main Cliff Center
- Rainbow (5.6)
- Anchovie Caper (5.8)
- Toxic Gumbo (5.8)
- Men in White Suits (5.9)
- The Green Mile (5.9)
- Scene of the Crime (5.10a)

The Meadows
- Bolt Line (5.8)
- Dung Beetle (5.8)
- Easy Terms (5.8)
- Hippo's Parade (5.8+)
- Lies & Propaganda (5.9)

New Wave
- Son of Sammy (5.8)
- Couch Potato (5.9)
- Debbie Does CPR (5.11a)

Parking Lot Wall
- Rise & Shine (5.7)
- Easily Aroused (5.9+)
- Egg McMeadows (5.10a)
- Juan Valdez (5.10b)
- Espresso (5.10d)

Triple Corners
- Rack for Sale (5.7)
- Left El Diego (5.9)
- Trigger Happy (5.9)
- Murk Trench (5.10a)

Lower Vader
- Yoda (5.9)
- Obi Wan Ryobi (5.9)

Upper Vader
- Pee Wee's Playhouse (5.4)
- Frosted Flakes (5.7)
- Victim of Love (5.8)
- Squall (5.10d)

 

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